Wednesday 27 January 2016

Working Week



This week, I am in Margalef, getting fit for projects, getting fit on projects, and editing video in every spare moment in between. We just arrived and after failing on some hard routes, I did a quick 10 min redpoint of La Bombi, 8b with the head torch. The following day I got a 1st redpoint of Zona 30 8b before moving onto my main course of failing on hard routes. There is some beta for Zona 30 in the video above.

I am suffering from slight lack of focus. I still can’t really pull on two-finger pockets because of a torn lumbrical although I’m fine on crimps. Anyone who has climbed in Margalef will understand why this presents a bit of a problem. What I really need a good project to get stuck into. But the two hard routes I’ve tried so far are either not very nice climbing or pretty reliant on being able to pull with that ring finger. I’m trying to decide whether to try an 9a that I know I’ll just be able to play on until my finger gets better, or get on some other classic 8cs. Problems problems eh?

Today is a rest day and I’m editing some great footage of articulate people and inspiring athletes from back home in Lochaber.

I got some news today that my wee short film of Alicia running ‘Miles Away’ has won best short film at the Fort William Mountain Festival which is in three short weeks time! Delighted. Miles Away is also showing at this year’s Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival which I’m speaking at as well. It’s also showing at the Dronefest film festival in London tonight (I think) if you happen to be there.

Miles Away from Dave MacLeod on Vimeo.

3 comments:

  1. Hi Dave, I've also torn a lumbrical and just wondered if you're buddy taping the ring finger to the pinky? I am doing so at the minute and climbing with pretty much zero pain, but I'm thinking of losing the tape and wanted to know how you manage this injury.
    Nice work on the fast redpoints

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